Great little civic with only 149k miles, vtec engine, ex with sunroof and automatic transmission. It has been serviced and inspected, runs and drives great. carsmartcars.com
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Every Toyota 22R series engine with the single row timing chain and plastic timing guides (1983~ish – 1995) that I have ever purchased with over 100000 miles on the engine has had a driver’s side guide that was either partially broken or just totally gone. To the untrained ear it sounds a like the valves need adjusting, but in this video I’ll show you how to inspect, troubleshoot, and diagnose a broken driver’s side timing guide. It makes a great bargaining chip when you can show the seller that the timing guide is broken and then inform them that it’s an 0+ repair at a shop. If you can fix it on your own it will only run you about 0 in parts and a Saturday’s worth of time.
Video Rating: 4 / 5
Thanks for the video. I knew there were problems with those plastic guides but haven’t been able to find the metal ones at any local parts house.
keep up the good work.i have a 91 yota 4runner v6 5spd just got it a few months back it was a real nice little truck till the 4×4 quit on me.i haven’t had a chance yet to look at it yet n figure it out but they are some tough trucks
There’s enough room to loosen the oil pan to drop it down a bit I think. It’s been a long time since I worked on the early Celica, but I think there is enough room ro R&R the oil pan without having to remove the sub-frame, either that or you can loosen the motor mounts and use a floor jack to lift up the engine from the lip of the transmission. You don’t “have” to fully remove the pan, but it’s a good idea if you have guide pieces down in it to get them out.
i might have asked this before but is it necessary to remove the oil pan because on an 83 celica there is a sub frame right under the oil pan that the suspension is bolted to (lower balljoints) and the only other way i could think of is to lift the engine slightly to remove the pan which means i have to unbolt the engine mounts and probably loosen the tranny thats some work to change my timing chain
continued from above… and if you don’t find anything obvious, try replacing the knock sensor any way. When you do, disconnect the battery for a few minutes and let the computer totally reset, then go out and drive it at varrying speeds and let it reprogram. The good news is that there aren’t “that” many sensors on a ’94 22RE so you should be able to chase down the culprit. The knock sensor is there to detect pre-detonation, so you might try the next octane of fuel up also.
What’s happening is that whatever is tripping the check engine light is throwing your fuel injection computer into whas is called “limp-mode” which basically means it’s gone into default programming and is not making adjustments based on sensors, it’s literally letting you limp home, hence the power loss. The problem is that a 94 truck is prior to the OBDII standardization of computer codes so it can be difficult to track down the cause. I would check the knock sensor wiring for good connection
i’ve got a 94 pickup with the 22re engine. i recently replaced timing chain, guides, and corresponding gears. since then, whenever the motor revs to around 2500 rpm it throws the check engine light. when this happens it puts a strain on the motor resulting in lack of power. ive checked the codes and it is giving a 52 which according to chilton manual is “knock sensor”. i’ve checked the knock sensor and it appears to be functioning properly. any help you could give would be greatly appreciated.
Could be a blown motor mount or a tranny mount. When they go it puts metal on metal and makes a hallacious sound. Look hard at the driver’s side motor mount, that’s the one that usually fails as the engine is trying to pull away from that side of the truck under torque.
Thank you, sir. You know, I’ve scoured the forums and not heard that answer given before. I like it. I’m going to look into this. I’m new to Toyota, but it’s a sweet little truck and I want to do it justice. The rattling I’m hearing is not cyclical. It it ever-present, just louder at times, depending on the RPM’s/vibration of the rig. If I hit that sweet spot before upshifting, while at high RPM’s, it can drown out the radio and my thought process. Definitely an ugly metallic sound…
nice can’t find much on my Toyota Pickup 1585
continued from above… You can get replacement caps from toyota. There is also a plastic seat in the shifter base that can wear down and come apart. that is also replaceable. Is the noise cylical with the engine or does it just happen all the time? Hard to diagnose over the net…lol… The early 5 speed trannys were pretty weak also…
Well, I’d pull the cover off and have a look. If you still have an ’81 engine you most likely have the steel guides and a double-row chain. That’s about as bulletproof as you can get. If it sounds like your tranny you may have lost the plastic cap that is on the bottom of the shifter lever. there’s a steel ball with a plastic cap on the end of your shifter you can’t see. If that cap wears out it falls off into the tranny. Not a problem with the plastic, but the metal ball contacts metal.
First off, your videos rock, man! I subbed.
Question: I have an 81 Toyota, the 22R. I’m hearing some gnarly rattling, which sounds like death to me, but not sure it is the T.C.R.O.D. According to this video, it sounds like my SR5 may be exempt from this issue, because its guides were metal, correct?
Sidenote: the rattle is NOISY. Sounds like someone put a few forks in the garbage disposal. It *seems* to be coming from underneath the cab. Shifts smooth and drives great though…
who are the bone heads that gives dislikes, this dude is doing a very good deed by fixing and video mortgaging video so you can learn. Thank you Pete.
Both the crankshaft gear and the cam gear have marks on them that correspond colored links on the timing chain. You put the single bright link on the corresponding mark on the crankshaft gear and put the mark on the camshaft gear between the two bright links of the chain. It can be done if there are not marked links on the chain, but it requires more though to get it right.
how do you fine the timing of the chain & pulley?
Pete, great video. I haven’t seen the 22r engine yet and while looking for timing parts, it asked if was a belt or chain. At first looking at a picture of the engine on-line, i thought it was a chain (which it is), but the fact i was asked belt or chain made me doubted myself. But this video proved to me it was a chain and it has a problematic chain guide issue (very nice to know). Lastly, i’ve heard of the broken timing cover due to the hidden bolt, now i know which one to look out for.
You might want to check your driveline first though. Make sure your u-joints are in good shape and don’t have excessive play in them. I’ve had drivelines with bad u-joints make some funny sounds. But I’d almost bank money on a bent axle shaft from what you describe.
Is that a rear disc brake car? If it is then it’s easy to check for a bent axle. jack up the rear end, take off the tires, pull off the caliper and rotor so you can see the end of the axle shaft. Start the car and put it in drive (MAKE SURE YOUR JACKSTANDS ARE GOOD AND BLOCK THE FRONT TIRES FROM ROLLING), no watch the end of the axle shaft to see if it’s wobbling around. If it’s not spinning true, your axle shaft is bent. Replacement is expensive and a beeee-atch.
Do you know if that rear end has a factory limited slip in it? If it does that might be shot (it’s almost 30 years old after all…). I had a buddy with a knock like what you are describing in an early rear wheel drive toyota car and what it turned out to be was a bent rear axle shaft (he had “drifted” his car right into a curb at some point and bent the shaft.)
Pete, I have a 22re in a 83 celica and it’s making a clunking sound in the rear end about in the middle and the knocking speeds up when you accelerate (eg moves with the axles/shaft). Any idea’s what it could be?
It’s not that big a deal really, unless you are planning to keep the rig forever. I think the service limit on a plastic guide is actually 60,000, but that’s a lot of miles. Most of them break around 80,000-110,000 and that IS a lot of miles…
we told the mechanic who we specifically told to replace are 22re timing chain guides with steel ones, and he spaced it and we have plastic ones again. But if i can get another 100000 mi out of it then f it.
4:50 for noise
the celica uses a timing chain in both the 1ZZFE and 2ZZGE engines. it could be that the timing chain is going out. I replaced it in my corolla.